Eating out in Paris is not cheap and so you want to make the most of your money in the capital.  Food in France is largely good quality, proving the country’s gastronomic reputation, but be aware that you can have to look a little harder (and pay a few Euros more) for more innovative cuisine.

Here are my top tips, by arrondissement, on where to eat including places serving platters of charcuterie to those offering full-on luxury meals.

2^e Arrondissement – around Rue Montorgueil and Les Halles:  Rue Montorgueil is a classy street – with classy prices for food but for a quick Croque Monsieur or burger, head to Le Compas (62 Rue Montorgueil).

3e Arrondissement – north of the Marais: For something cheaper, as a student I loved Flunch (21 Rue de Beaubourg) for its cafeteria style meals and limitless vegetables.

Le Mary Celeste (1 Rue Commines) offers innovative twists on French classics. The service is friendly and it has some very nice small plates.

The Marché des Enfants-Rouge (39 rue de Bretagne) had a great mix of food stalls & is fun place to explore.

For something a little more expensive, try La Camille (24 Rue Francs Bourgeois)which is a typical bistrot with salads to start, cuts of beef for main and the famous deserts to follow, all with cramped tables and slightly snooty service.  But it’s a good example of the genre.

5^e Arrondissement – around the Sourbonne and Rue Mouffetard:  My local is La Terrace St Jacques (86 Boulevard de Port-Royal) and it offers solid café food at a reasonable price.    If you fancy Moules Frites then head to Académie de la Bière (88Bis Boulevard de Port-Royal) – which has good beers to go with your food.  Further down Port Royal is Bistroit V (56 Boulevard de Port-Royal) which offers well-cooked traditional French food (steaks, duck etc.), with a short but good value wine list and friendly service. On Rue Mouffetard, Chez Anne (36 Rue Mouffetard) provides cheap but tasty asian food.

6^e Arrondissement – around Jardin du Luxembourg & St Germain: There is a variety of eating options on Rue de Buci.  Maison Sauvage (5 Rue de Buci) offers a collection if small plates and snacks which are nicely presented & flavoursome but at a price.  Over the road, the burgers at Café Jade (12 Rue de Buci) are good and the accompaniments are better quality than many.  Another traditional café is Le Danton (103 Boulevard Saint Germain) but its salads are particularly good.

For treats and birthdays, try Semilla (54 Rue de Seine) which offers seemingly simple, seasonal food which has hidden surpises.  Its Petit Pois soup was fresh and crisp, its beef is to die for and its deserts come with little flourishes which show the quality of the chef.  The wine list is extensive and interesting.  Well worth it.

Le Christine (1 Rue Christine) is a smart restaurant with a menu which has some innovation.

7^e Arrondissement – around Les Invalides: Close to my work are a number of office restaurants which offer good value lunch time menus.  These include:

• Bistrot Chez France (9 Rue Amélie) is a little posh for a lunch but very welcoming and offers a great set menu.
• Toyotaka (64 Rue Saint-Dominique) – good Sushi & very good value wine
• Sushi Shop (86 Rue Saint-Dominique) – a chain but good quality Sushi
• Apollon (24 Rue Jean Nicot) – fresh if a little pricey Greek food
• Dong Phat (10 Rue Malar) – bowls of wholesome Pho and good Vietnamese food
• Ryukishin Eiffel (20 Rue de l’Exposition) offers some of the best ramen – it’s not cheap but the lunchtime menu helps.
• Tabac de l’Université (151 Rue de l’Université) is a favourite for lunch doing the classics very well.

9^e Arrondissement – near Opéra: To accompany your glass of fizz with a view at La Terrace des Galeries Lafayette (40 Boulevard Haussmann) then there are some reasonably priced meat and cheese platters.

10^e Arrondissement – around Canal St Martin:  Le Chardon (27 Rue Bouchardon) is cool with some good veg options.

11^e Arrondissement – near Bastille and Oberkamf:  Les Fabricants (61 Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud) offers generous portions inspired by the South West of France: duck, beef and lots of cheese feature on the menu.  And the wines include some nice reds from that part of the world.

Elsewhere in the 11th, the burgers are large and generous at L’Eventail (28 Boulevard Voltaire) – and help soak up the beer.

12e Arrondissement – near Gare de Lyon: Ground Control (81 Rue du Charolais) is a collection of food stalls from all over the world in an old depot. There’s also artisan shops and music at the weekend. Popular with a trendy crowd.

13e Arrondissement: Il était un square (54 Rue Corvisart) is a little out but has won awards for its burger.

14^e Arrondissement – around Montparnasse:  On Boulevard Edgard Quinet is Pinocchio (19 Boulevard Edgar Quinet) which offers an Italian menu which isn’t particularly distinctive but the vegetable pizza was generous and the beef carpaccio was well seasoned.  Near by, the platters at The Copper Pub (4 Impasse de la Gaité) are generous and tasty.

La Coupole (102 Bd du Montparnasse) is a classic of the area with art on the walls and a traditional menu. The oysters and champagne for pre-dinner drinks are excellent. Tradition comes at a price but it’s not bad for a one off experience.

I mention a lot of Cafés in this list but one of the better Bistrots in the area is Augustin (79 Rue Daguerre) – it offers high class spins on typical menu items.  Fish with a light sauce, well-cooked veal with seasonal veg and deserts which balance sweet & sharpness well.  And a nice selection of drinks. Good for a nice night out.

Bistrotters (9 Rue Decrès) is a little gem with classic French food elevated but not pretentious.

Black Pinky (30Bis Rue de la Gaité) is a quality Thai on a busy street.

Here’s a further list of our favorites cafes and bars which also do good food:

• Maison Edgar (232 Bd Raspail)
• Le Boa (127 Bd du Montparnasse)
• La Creole (122 Bd du Montparnasse)
• Deux Cigales (Closed Sunday evening) (8 Rue Bréa)
  
• Café Boheme (19 Bd Edgar Quinet)
• Les Fauves (33 Bd Edgar Quinet)

 There is also the La Ratonde (105 Bd du Montparnasse), Le Dôme (108 Bd du Montparnasse),  and Le Relais de L’entrecôte (101 Bd du Montparnasse) nearby which are very good if a tad expensive.

17^e Arrondissement – around the Arc de Triomphe:  If you’re ever at the Arc de Triomphe and need a spot of lunch, Le Franc-Tireur (34 Rue d’Armaillé) is a quick walk away and offers many of the items (& prices) you would expect from a typical café in this neighbourhood.

Il était une oie dans le Sud Ouest (8 Rue Gustave Flaubert)– a solid restaurant with food from south west France and a quirky decor.

19e Arrondissement: A good Ethiopian restaurant is Itegue Taitu (66 Rue Armand Carrel).

[First Published 13/05/19, updated 26/04/22]